“Unfortunately, now it’s just money that matters. Nobody gives a damn about the quality. You see a lot of substandard work nowadays”, says Moazzam Abbasi

The team of Flaunt Pakistan Magazine recently sat down the iconic fashion designer Moazzam Abbasi for a detailed interview. The excerpt of the interview is as follows:

1. How and when did you start working as a designer?

MHK: Okay, this was in 1992 and that’s how I became an accidental designer. Reason being that I used to make a lot of sketches. So I and along with my friend Adnan Ansari. We just randomly called the editor of ‘Fashion Collection’ which was a very happening magazine at that time. I am not sure if it’s even operating now. So at that particular time Fashion Collection and Visage were two main magazines which were printed on the glossy paper. Of course, there was ‘She Magazine’, Women’s Own Magazine etc. So, what happened was that I called them randomly. The Editor Alya Mian and I spoke and I told her that I am interested. She wanted me to send her sketches. I sent her the sketches and she loved the sketches. So, one thing led to another and finally we came down to discussing the shoot. Seemi Pasha was one of the top models at that time. So this is the one of the shoots for the first time ‘Fashion Collection’ did outside Karachi. So, we were the first designers from Hyderabad. There was no concept of Fashion designing in Hyderabad. So we did our very first shoot in Hyderabad. And the results came up very stunning and amazing. Of course, the response was very positive and very good. At that time, Kolach was just planning to open the outlet, which was basically the amalgamation of a lot of designers. So, Deepak Perwani started after that. There was Amir Adnan over there, who have recently emerged as one of the leading names. There were a lot of people. I and Adnan were there from Rivayat and this is how and we started.

Q2. Tell us something about your journey as a designer so far?

MHK: Okay, it’s been a very long journey because like I said I started in 1992 and the basic concept of having a son as a designer. And that to be designing women’s wear was not considered something of a talent. So my father one day wanted me to give up on this because I didn’t pursue my engineering degree and he wanted me to give it up. But obviously I and Adnan, we broke all the norms and then it’s been a very rough ride and journey full of highs and lows. At that particular time, we used to travel to Karachi to get the shoots done, buy the materials, and get stitching done in Hyderabad. So, it was quite a rough journey because of course we were also being labelled as ‘so called designers’ from Hyderabad. I don’t want to name them but like I said this journey has had many ups and downs. But we were still able to break that Mafia thing and then get into the A bracket. We worked with the best of models and photographers and finally those who were pointing out the fingers on us at that time. Unfortunately, they fizzled out and we survived.

Q3 Okay, so tell us something about your artistry and some of your specialties’ as a designer?

MHK: To be very honest I discovered my talent artistry and my specialty at a much later stage as I accidentally realized that I was making clothes. Some of the clothes collection were very great. But some of them were similar to what other designers designed. Finally one fine day, my best friend Adnan Ansari suggested me that why don’t you make something in white. So, I started making outfits in white color and became a huge success. Now, a lot of people refer me as the ‘King of white’. Nida Yasir once wore one of my white outfits for Ramzan and for her morning shows. She calls me up often. Bushra Ansari wanted me to give her white Ghagara for an Independence Day cover. So generally I love that they put a label on me and I loved being called as the ‘King of White’. It’s definitely a compliment.

Q4 What challenges have you faced as a designer so far especially in modern day times?

MHK: Unfortunately, the fashion industry when I was starting, it was held hostage by few people. There was a fashion mafia which later on broke up but definitely we packed to square one. Again we have the same few names they would defend only those who were their supporters and would usually get the best opportunities to show their collection. So obviously it was very difficult to break into that group and then make a name for yourself. Initially it was very difficult and like I said I came from Hyderabad. But only the best part was of course the mafia was there, but things were as dirty as they are right now. Now unfortunately every second third person claims to be a designer having no fashion ethic following no fashion philosophy.

I do know the names but I don’t want to name them. There is one designer who used to run fridge and air conditioner repair shop and suddenly he came to this field. Of course he knows few people here and there. So, the class is lost. Earlier, our models were very educated, they were coming from very good backgrounds. There were very good photographers. We were very quality conscious. A bad shoot was an embarrassment. I recall that there were makeup artists across the Clifton Bridge and even they were willing to pay you, but the models were never interested to work with those makeup artists. Anytime, if a project was discussed we were very conscious about who is the makeup artist, what kind of clothes were in our showcase, who would be the photographer? What look would go with which outfit? Unfortunately, now it’s just money that matters. Nobody gives a damn about the quality. You see a lot of substandard work nowadays.

Q5: Okay, Have you ever felt any kind of censorship in your work? Like you want to do design something but you couldn’t do that because of Pakistan cultural and religious barrier?

MHK: I have gone out of the bounds of boundaries for my work, I have done some really amazing shoots. And you know I received a lot of difficulties too. So the response has been both positive and negative. I remember long long time back. This was the annual issue of Mag the Weekly and Zahid Wari was the photographer, Sunita Marshall at that particular time was the reigning model, Tehmina was the fashion coordinator. So we did a very bold shoot of Sunita Marshall, showing her as a street walker and Hassan’s the actor. This was his first shoot and we showed him as a client. It was interesting. Then, we had another shoot with model Meerub. Meerub was not very a well-known face at that time. We did a very bold shoot with her at night where she was sitting on a stool. So, it was again a very wonderful shoot. Then there is another shoot we did with a model at Hawskbay. I can’t recall her name. She is retired now.

Q6: Can you name some Pakistani celebrities that you love to work with?

MHK: Zeba Baktiyar, Samina Ahmed, Hadiqa Kiyani, Sana Fakhar, Bushra Ansari… you know the list is endless.

Q7: who are some of the well-dressed celebrities in Pakistan?

MHK: In terms of models, I would say Fouzia Aman, Sunita Marshall, Nadia Hussain are some of the well-dressed females I have come across. Among males, I think Faisal Quraishi and Humayun Ashraf.

Q8: Can you name some celebrities who need to work on their dressing sense?

MHK: There are a lot of people, sorry to say. I won’t name any of them as I don’t want to hurt their feelings.

Q9: What is next for you as a designer?

MHK: I am still in the learning process. I think the minute a creator reaches his or her ultimate level, that day he or she dies as a creator. A true creator is never satisfied with their work. They keep on growing. This is what I plan to do.

Q10: what is your take on the current fashion scene?

MHK: I think it’s a mess. People have still not come to terms with a designer’s vision. Every collection looks like a copy of another designer’s collection.

Q11 Can you point out some changes of the fashion scene of early 2000s and the current Pakistani fashion scene?

MHK: Professionalism has gone now. A lot of our models throw tantrums if you call them for rehearsals of fashion shows. Somehow they feel humiliated that why are you calling us for rehearsals? On shoots, they come late, their makeup is never done on time. These models want to leave early.

Q12 what message you want to give to all the aspiring designers out there?

MHK: you should come into this field when you have a backup plan, enough money to survive if you get exploited because in this industry you would find all kinds of people so please don’t come with the concept that it’s going to be a very hunky dory ride. You will find wolfs in sheep’s clothing. We don’t have educated people in this industry anymore. Professionalism is a thing of the past. The new lot isn’t as professional like Nadia Hussain or Sunita Marshall. I did a show with Nadia Hussain in London too. The way she carries herself is amazing. A lot of the models from the newer lot don’t know anything about professionalism.